Wednesday, February 25, 2015

Completed: Southwestern Hoodie

I've been wanting to make a hoodie for some time. This summer, I found this fabric at my local store (Stitches!) for something silly like $3.00 a yard. I think at that point I had never sewn with non-wovens of any kind, but I bought three yards anyway. It's a great sweatshirt knit, with a soft fleece-y inside and a great screen printed pattern on the right side.

I made this hoodie with McCall's 4261 view A, heavily modified.
The pattern originally calls for a shoulder yoke and the self facing to be turned to the wrong side. Nope nope nope.
I cut the XS and made the following changes:
-Added topstitching throughout. (cuffs, hem band, shoulders, sleeves, hood/neck, extra row on the pockets.) I essentially made a mock flat felled seam with the seam allowance and then trimmed it down after.
-Set the sleeves in flat, and pinched out the excess at the sleeve head with an inverted box pleat. A fun feminine touch!
-Sewed the side and sleeve seams at 1/4"
-No shoulder yoke!
-Added a button hole opening on either side of the hood for an added drawstring
-Folded those self facings to the interior
-Cut the hem band on the fold. (The pattern calls for cutting two. It's just a rectangle and this fabric was thick, so cutting down on uneccessary seams was a plus)

And a little "this might be a hoodie?" selfie!

You can really see the colors on this WIP shot:

I'd like to make at least one more in black. I had a black hoodie that I loved which has disappeared. For the next go-round I'll turn the edges of the pockets before topstitching. Right now they're just sewn right on with rough edges, and I think it looks a little becky-home-ecky.

Here are some detail shots!

Zipper topstitching, hem band. This is the best topstitching I've ever produced!

Dem buttonholes tho

Loads of topstitching, adorable tiny inverted box pleat the sleeve head

Cuff topstitching

And that's pretty much it! Look for more soon!

Friday, January 9, 2015

Completed: Renfrew the Stripey (PART DEUX)

After my first run-in with stripes, and my traditional off-by-one error, I knew I wanted to revisit the issue.  You know what they say, practice makes better!

I've been sewing a lot of basics, and I really like view C of the Renfrew because it feels a bit dressier than a plain t-shirt but it wears like a plain t-shirt, win!

I was super careful on cutting this fabric. It's a nice drapey rayon-cotton knit that I grabbed out of a remnant bin at Hancock fabrics for $6. It's about 1.5 yards? This time, I used a sharpie to trace outside the pattern and cut then, instead of trying to keep everything from shifting around with pattern weights.

The same changes were made this time that I also made to my cozy renfrew - extended bands. I'm starting to think I need to double check the sleeve height, as every single time I have made this pattern the sleeve has not fit correctly into the armsyce.

Here it is on the dressform! I'm incredibly pleased with my stripe matching this time!

Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Completed: Totally Tubular 80's-tastic Rad Rigel Bomber

AHHH! I am totally on a Papercut Patterns kick! I am really loving these designs, so I can't wait to see what else I'll be churning out soon! (Spoiler: I made the Pneuma Bra during my office's "winter break" and it's *AMAZING*)

A note: I've often held off posting because I haven't taken "good" photos of myself wearing the garment. It's usually an iPhone mirror selfie, and I get all self-conscious about it and don't end up posting. NO MORE! I've got some in progress shots, and dress form shots, and then an iPhone selfie. I don't want to let that stop me from keeping up to date with the things I've made. Deal with it.

May I present to you: the Totally Tubular 80's-tastic Rad Rigel Bomber!!!!

This is a stretch cotton sateen I bought at JoAnn's a billion years ago. I don't know what I was thinking? I am willing to bet it was on sale and I thought I'd make a dress out of it.

Along with everyone else who's made this jacket, I added a lining. I omitted the facings and I followed Lladybird's lead and used most of Jen's bagging tutorial, with a minor modification.

This lining is linen. Since this is meant as a light weight jacket, I don't plan on wearing this with anything long sleeved, and could avoid using a slippery fabric for the arms. My next go round will be of a heavier fabric and will definitely include slippery arms!

To that end, Linen loves to absolutely disintegrate, so I serged every single seam as I was putting it together. This means I had a whole "Jacket" ready to go into my shell, and I didn't want to rip open ANY of those linen seams. Doing that would mean eating into the seam allowance on the lining and cause the lining to become unstable.

What I did instead was to attach the lining as instructed for the facings, sewing together at the neck (after the ribbing was attached) and zipper line (after the zipper was installed). I also sewed together at the arms (again, after the ribbing was attached)which was a little terrifying.

At that point, I had all upper points together, and the hem ribbing had not yet been installed. I then treated the lining and the shell as one and just serged the hem ribbing on.

I had never made a welt pocket before. In fact, I now realize when I made my Minoru, I had wanted to add welt pockets, but failed to find a tutorial for adding them with a zipper.

The instructions included for making the welt pockets are easy to follow! I had tried to do some "research" beforehand by reading tutorials on other blogs, but that was not necessary.


And now, here I am wearing it, with matching phone case!


Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Completed: Ikat Papercut Patterns Ooh La Leggings

If the photos aren't coming through, click HERE!

Papercut Leggings on my table.

I've had a long list of legging patterns, draft-it-yourself instructions, and other sewist's legging projects around, but I've been pretty intimidated about leggings. I don't know why. I finally just bit the bullet and bought the PDF copy of the Papercut Patterns Ooh La Leggings.

Totally not disappointed, you guys. This pattern is well drafted, and is only 5 pattern pieces! Just FIVE! These were so fast to make up - I did nearly everything on my serger. The fabric used feels like a swimsuit lycra (content was unknown) that I picked up off a remnant table. I think the piece was only 5/8's of a yard, and since this fabric has 4 way stretch, I just folded the other direction and was able to make the below knee length version!

Since the print is pretty busy, the lines are lost. I've got another pair almost finished, and I can assure you that the lines are *very* visible on there! The rise is really high, which I like very much. I plan to wear these to the gym and for backpacking/hiking, so I prefer something that's sitting above my hips.

The waistband insertion is genius - you sew your band in a circle, serge or zigzag it to the top edge of the waist, fold and zig zag down. Done and done. None of the traditional threading elastic through with a hole in the back kind of stuff. I'm definitely going to use this method for any other elastic waist that I can!

You can see the lines (and how pretty the guts are!) from the insides. Here's the front:

And here's the back:

Oh gosh. I realize that these aren't hemmed in these photos. I promise I hemmed them! I just serged the edges, turned up and zig-zagged! If you're unsure about sewing yoru own leggings, or you just want to play around with more knit fabrics - get this pattern!!

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

Completed: Renfrew the Stripey!

If you can't view this in your email (Mom, Aunt Theresa!) Click HERE!

I love Sewaholic's Renfrew. It has completely changed my sewing mojo for the better. This is such a fast, satisfying project. I've made three so far, with a few more planned. Additionally, it's such a great step into knits, which ARE NOT SCARY AT ALL.

Cutting out stripes - so many pins! 
The traditional "off by one" error. This only happened on one side seam, so whatever. I don't care, judge all you want!
Sleeve cuffs. Stripe matching is....I think I did ok here for my first time! 
After a day of wear, I ended up cutting a larger/longer hem band and it's perfect!
I've been meaning to take photos of this shirt for like, 3 weeks. Deal with my bad choice in undergarments. Sorrynotsorry.

Not sure what happened to my face. Ah, timer photos!


Crowning frigging achievement. STRIPE MATCHINGGGGGGG


Lookit my cowl! OK SEE YOU LATER!

Monday, November 24, 2014

Rigel Bomber Planzzzzzz

(If this post isn't showing the photos in your email, click HERE!)

oh helloooo beauty! 

This pattern has been out for a while. I looked at it, then kept moving. Then all of these amazing Rigel's started popping up everywhere. (Click the pics to go to their respective sources!)





And then the Gap started schilling them (which I was going to link to but I guess they're not on sale anymore, so whatever), and I'm not really one for "on trend" but I loves me a jacket, so now this pattern is mine.

And then what really sealed the deal was Lauren went and posted a photo on instagram and listed her ribbing source. GAME OVER YA'LL. I ordered two kinds of ribbing from Pacific Trimming in NYC.
Super fast shipping, and the ribbing I got is super high quality. 

SILVER and GOLD! Girl, you so fancy!

I have a potentially suitable coating for a little more substance, but I also have several great floral cottons in my stash (that I need to whittle down so that I can buy more fabric) so I'm still contemplating what I'll actually make it out of.

I really, really, like the weight and substance of the Papercut Patterns. For those that don't know - they come printed on a sturdier recycled brown paper. I just assembled my instruction booklet last night. Posts for a work in progress soon!

Friday, November 21, 2014

Completed: Renfrew the Cozy!

When I first traced off the Renfrew, I used a size 0 with some modifications. I removed 1" from the bodice front and back, 1/2" from the sleeve length (3/4 length sleeves) and did a weird sleeve sizing experiment (which failed spectacularly, by the way) where I traced a 2 but didn't accommodate the sleeve cap change in the armscye in the bodice. As you can imagine, that was fun to figure out.

I made some alterations again last night, this time adding back the 1" and 1/2" chunks I originally removed, and extending the bands a bit. I've found when using slinkier knits, the bands don't tend to hold their shape (they kind of bunch up a little?) so I heightened those by 1-2", depending on how much fabric I have to work with. It's really arbitrary, but doesn't matter much since they're just rectangles.
The other thing I've been doing is just cutting the cowl with one layer. You really don't have to finish the edges because knits don't unravel or fray, and often times with lighterweight knits, it's a little weird to have a double layer in just that one area. Also saves on fabric, so you can get away with much less yardage than is "required". I've made this top on less than a yard. Seriously!

Last night, I made a Renfrew out of....fleece!

I originally picked up this fleece as a remnant at JoAnns. I think it was just over a yard and probably like $3-$6. Super Amaze.

The guts are SO PRETTY. I used my serger for the entire thing (normally I use my machine and then finish with the serger)

Here is it right side out. Boring, but so warm and inviting!

My crowning achievement - those seams are super lined-up! Especially on the serger, this has been something I've had a hard time with. I use a walking foot on my regular machine, which does help some, but I've been trying to improve this particular skill.

When you make a particular style over and over, do you notice techniques or particular things that you want to work on/fix? 

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